Curious about one thing: what rig are you actually running? I've been wrenching on stuff for years and fitment varies a ton between like a Jeep and a Tacoma, especially with 35s. Also, are you more worried about the rocks tearing up the flares themselves, or is it basically just about keeping the mud off? Lemme know cuz that budget is doable if we pick the right materials.

Honestly, watch out for the cheap universal plastic flares because they're basically guaranteed to fly off the first time you catch a branch or some deep mud. If you're doing the install yourself, I'd HIGHLY recommend looking at some high-clearance flat flares made from thermoplastic. They're way easier to work with than steel and way more forgiving if you mess up the alignment during the DIY process.

I was in the same boat with my 35s and ended up going with a set of Bushwacker Flat Style Fender Flares. They were right around $500, so well within your budget, and the install was pretty straightforward without a ton of crazy drilling. In my experience, the plastic is actually better for a DIYer because if you do hit a rock, the flare will just flex or pop its clips rather than buckling your actual fender like a steel one might. I mean, it's not indestructible, but I've been super happy with how they've handled rock rash so far.

If you want that wider coverage for the mud, definitely look at the 6-inch wide options. I noticed that Lund and Smittybilt have some decent flat styles too, but fitment can be a bit hit or miss depending on your specific rig. Basically, you want something that gives you that extra vertical room for when your suspension fully compresses on the trails. It's so much better than hearing that awful crunching sound every time you hit a bump lol. gl with the build!

For ur situation, I've been thinking about this and honestly, you gotta be careful with steel flares if you're hitting heavy trails. I think... IIRC, while steel is way tougher for rock rash, if you slam 'em hard, they’re gonna transfer all that force straight to ur quarter panels and CRUMPLE the body. That's a huge safety and repair concern tbh.

Basically, here's what I'd suggest:
- Look into high-clearance plastic ones from brands like Bushwacker or maybe Rough Country. They're usually right in that $500-600 range.
- Flat style is definitely the way to go for 35s to stop the rubbing during articulation.
- Check for "no-drill" kits specifically; some say they're easy but still require cutting factory liners.

Not 100% sure which rig ur on, but high-quality plastic is probably the safer bet for long-term reliability since it flexes instead of bending ur frame. GL!

Quick question - whats your wheel offset? I'd basically just look at Bushwacker or Poison Spyder brands, but gotta know your backspacing first to see if they'll actually cover those 35s lol.

I have been running 35s for about five years now and went through a whole journey with flares. I started with cheap ones, then almost went steel, but eventually settled on a high-quality flexible option. The technical reason is the TPO material. Basically, it has a high flex modulus, which means if you pivot on a rock or a tree, the flare just deforms and pops back instead of cracking or bending your tub. If you're worried about rock rash, those steel ones look cool but that energy transfer is real. I ended up installing MCE Fenders Generation II Flat Flares and honestly, they've survived stuff that would have totaled my quarter panels if I had metal ones. Plus, they use the factory mounting holes so there isnt a ton of drilling involved. Long term, you really gotta look for UV stability specs too. Some of the budget brands turn grey after one summer in the sun, but mine still look black after years of abuse.

• Check your clearance at full bump and lock
• Look into TPO material for durability
• Consider the 'give' factor for trail hits so you dont ruin the body

I’ve only been wrenching on my Jeep for a little while, but I’ve had my 35s for over a year now and there are a few things I wish someone told me before I started. Like, honestly, the flares are only half the battle when you're looking at long-term stuff. - Don't forget the inner fender liners! This was a huge mistake for me. Most people forget that once you swap the stock flares, the plastic inside doesn't always stay put and it looks REALY messy. You basically have to budget for new liners or get ready to trim your old ones.
- Watch the hardware quality. A lot of kits come with cheap bolts that start rusting after the first winter, which is a total nightmare if you ever need to adjust them later. I'd definitely look for stainless steel hardware if you can.
- Think about UV fading. Some plastics turn a weird chalky gray color after just one summer in the sun if they aren't treated right. Are you planning on doing the install yourself or taking it to a shop? I did mine and it was way more work than I expected tbh, so just make sure you have a full weekend free for it!

Regarding what #7 said about "I have been running 35s for about five..."

• I really gotta echo the point about flexibility. If you're actually hitting trails, rigid steel flares can be a nightmare because they don't give at all. I've seen guys bend their entire quarter panel because the flare caught a rock and didn't budge. Looking at what everyone else mentioned, you definitely need to watch your backspacing too. For your $600 budget, you might want to consider Rugged Ridge Hurricane Flat Fender Flares. They're a solid middle ground and usually don't require much, if any, drilling. Another option if you want performance over everything is the MCE Fenders Generation II Flexible Flat Fenders. These things are legendary because they basically just bend and pop back into shape. Just a heads up though, even with more clearance, make sure you check your bump stops. Flares give the tires room to breathe, but they wont stop the rubber from eating your inner wheel wells if the suspension over-articulates. Be careful with those cheap knockoffs too, ngl they usually look like trash after one summer in the sun.

Did this last week, worked perfectly