How to replace front brake pads on an Audi A4 B8?

Like someone mentioned, youre totally safe on the fronts without a scan tool. Just wrapped mine yesterday. Honestly tho, I was disappointed with some cheapos I tried last season. They faded way too fast in the mountains. Since youre heading to Tahoe, dont cheap out too much on the friction material or youll regret it when the car is loaded with gear.

• TRW GDB1768 Front Brake Pads
• These are basically OEM quality. Great bite but slightly more dust than ceramics.
• Wagner QuickStop ZD1322 Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
• Better for the wallet, but I had issues with them squeaking until they got really warm. If you can swing the extra twenty bucks, go with TRW. The Wagners are okay for flat ground, but for mountain driving, the TRWs handle the heat way better. Definitely pick up a bottle of CRC Disc Brake Quiet 4oz to coat the back of the pads too, saves a lot of headache later.

Yeah you're fine for the fronts. The computer requirement is strictly for the rear electronic parking brake on the B8. For the front, you just need a standard brake tool or a big clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Make sure you follow these steps carefully:

• Loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir so you dont build too much pressure.
• Use a TEKTON 5910 6-Inch C-Clamp and an old pad to push the piston back slowly.
• Check the rubber dust boots for any tears or leaks while youre in there.
• Clean the carrier where the pads sit with a wire brush. You might want to consider grabbing some Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube for the contact points. Dont skip cleaning the slide pins or you might get uneven wear later. If the reservoir was topped off lately, watch the level so it doesnt spill over when you compress the piston.

@Reply #1 - good point! You definitely saved yourself some cash by skipping the shop for the fronts. I've done my B8 three times now and honestly, it is a breeze compared to the rears. Glad you realized you dont need the VCDS for this part of the job. I'm gonna disagree slightly on the lube choice tho. Permatex works in a pinch, but for these Audi calipers, I have been way more satisfied using AGS Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant 4oz Tube or CRC Silaramic Brake System Grease 5oz. The Permatex can get a bit gummy over time on German slider pins, and the Silaramic stays slick basically forever. Couple quick things to keep in mind:

• Use a stiff wire brush to scrub the caliper carrier where the pad ears sit. If there is rust buildup, your new pads will stick and you'll get annoying uneven wear.
• Crack the brake fluid reservoir cap before you compress the piston. It makes it way easier to push back and prevents weird pressure buildup in the lines. Just take your time with those anti-rattle clips because they can be a pain. If you need cheap pads that actually perform, I am super happy with Akebono Euro Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pads EUR1322. No complaints at all after 20k miles on my current set, and the wheels stay way cleaner. Good luck with the Tahoe trip!