In my experience, height isnt everything if your undercarriage gets shredded lol. I spent way too much on fancy kits that unfortunately didnt save my oil pan. For a budget-friendly Colorado build, start with these:

• Rough Country 2-inch Leveling Kit for Chevrolet Colorado (only about $50)
• Rival 4x4 Aluminum Engine Skid Plate for Chevrolet Colorado (around $250) Honestly, basic protection is WAY more important than a huge lift when you're starting out. good luck!!

Story time: I went through this exact same thing last year. I was ready to hit the trails but ngl, I was concerned about long-term reliability. I initially looked at the Rough Country 2-inch Leveling Kit for Chevrolet Colorado mentioned earlier cuz it is so cheap, but after doing some research, I got worried about the CV axle angles and ball joint wear... Basically, for rocks, you kinda want actual suspension performance, not just a spacer. I ended up going a bit more conservative to keep things reliable:

• I installed the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System E80-35-037-01-22 which replaces the shocks for better dampening.
• For the belly, I chose the AEV Chevrolet Colorado ZR2 Bison Steel Engine Skid Plate cuz aluminum can sometimes gouge on sharp rocks. Steel is heavier but it slides over boulders way easier tbh. It works well for my needs. Anyway, just my experience, but definitely consider the stress on your suspension before you commit. gl!!

Saved for later, ty!

Saved for later, ty!

Honestly, doing the work yourself is the best way to really know your rig, but I see so many guys skip the technical details when they are wrenching in the driveway. If you are going the DIY route, you really have to be careful with the geometry changes on the Colorado front end. It is not just about throwing parts on, it is about maintaining industry standards for safety, you know?

• Use a calibrated torque wrench for every single bolt, especially the upper control arms.
• You absolutely must get a professional alignment immediately after any suspension work to avoid ruining your tires.
• Do not forget about rock sliders because rocker panel damage is basically permanent and very expensive to repair compared to a skid plate. Tbh, a lot of people forget that the electronic steering racks on these newer trucks can be sensitive to sudden geometry shifts. Just follow the factory service manual specs to the letter and you should be fine. It is better to be over-prepared than stuck on a trail with a snapped bolt or a failed ball joint because of a bad install.

Regarding what #5 said about "Honestly, doing the work yourself is the best..."

• I'm right there with you. I've spent years under these trucks and there is no substitute for knowing your own rig inside and out. It's the only way to troubleshoot when things inevitably go sideways on the trail. Basically, the thread has hit the big points:
• Protection is king (skid plates > lifts)
• Geometry is fragile on the Colorado front end
• Precision matters during the install I think I heard some guys talking about how the electronic power steering racks can get touchy if the angles are off too much, but I'm not 100% sure if that applies to all years or just the newer ones. IIRC, you really want to watch your ball joint angles if you go past that 2-inch mark. Not sure but I've heard some chatter that the stock UCAs can start hitting the springs on full droop if you aren't careful. Definitely something to double check before you commit to a specific setup.