I'd actually suggest a different approach—well, at least a different hardware path than the Yakima setup mentioned above. While those are great, I've had a different experience with the Outback's unique rail system. If you're hauling two heavy kayaks, you really want to minimize the 'flex' that occurs with clip-on towers.

In my opinion, the Thule WingBar Edge is a superior choice for the Outback specifically. Because they have a lower profile and an integrated design, they handle high-torque lateral loads (like wind hitting a kayak) much better than taller setups. The aerodynamics are also top-tier; I barely noticed any whistling even at 75 mph.

Technically, the issue with the factory swing-out bars isn't just the 150lb weight limit—it's the T-track compatibility and the bar spread. If you go with the Thule WingBar Evo 135 crossbars paired with the Thule Raised Rail Evo feet, you get a much wider mounting area. This is crucial for two kayaks because it lets you spread the load further toward the edges of the roof, which is structurally more sound on this car.

Also, if you're worried about stability, definitely look into the Thule Compass Kayak Carrier. It’s a versatile mount that can handle two boats in a stacker configuration or one in a J-style. It honestly makes the whole setup feel like one solid unit. Just my two cents based on some long hauls to the coast! Hope this helps! 🛶

Seconding the recommendation above regarding the Yakima setup! Honestly, after years of hauling, I’ve learned that the 'dynamic load rating' is what really matters, not just the static weight. Those factory bars flex way too much under heavy lateral loads... like when a gust of wind hits two kayaks. I'd suggest looking at the Yakima Landing Pad 15 paired with Yakima Skyline Towers and Yakima JetStream Internal Bar 50 inch. It's a rock-solid, safety-first choice that virtually eliminates that nerve-wracking highway wobble.

Hi there! Honestly, I totally get the anxiety about those factory swing-out bars. While they're okay for a light basket, they can feel pretty sketchy with two heavy kayaks! Since you're looking for a more robust setup without breaking the bank, I would suggest looking at the Malone AirFlow2 Universal Cross Rail System. It's a fantastic, budget-friendly alternative to the big names that still offers a 165lb capacity and solid aluminum aero bars to keep wind noise down.

Warning: Be extremely careful about exceeding the dynamic weight limit of the Outback's roof rails themselves, not just the bars. Overloading can lead to roof deformation or, worse, the rails pulling away from the frame during a sudden stop!

For your gear, I'd recommend:
- Use Malone SeaWing Kayak Carrier to save space
- Grab some Thule 18-foot Load Straps for extra security
- Check your bolts every 100 miles on long trips!

Seriously, you're gonna love the extra peace of mind. Let me know if you need more info on the install!

Hi there! Honestly, I totally get being cautious with those factory bars... they can feel a bit flimsy for heavy gear! For your situation, I'd definitely suggest the Yakima JetStream Crossbars paired with Yakima Skyline Towers. It's a fantastic, robust setup that's way more stable for two kayaks than the stock ones! Plus, they're super quiet on the highway. Seriously, it's an amazing upgrade for around $500–$600 depending on sales. Hope this helps!

Just catching up on this thread and zpefvjysvi is totally right... going with a platform is a fantastic choice for a diy project! It really helps with that stability issue you mentioned. If youre going the diy route, here are a few resources i found super helpful:

• Reference the fitment guides on the etrailer website... they have amazing videos that show exactly how these systems bolt onto the subaru rails.
• Consult the subaru technical information system if you want the exact torque specs for the roof bolts.
• Look for dynamic load calculators online to see how your specific cargo affects the center of gravity. Its honestly such a fun project to tackle and you will love the results!

I definitely agree with the points made about the dynamic load rating—it’s the most overlooked factor when people DIY their setups. Most people just look at the static weight, but the torque applied during highway maneuvers is what kills those factory swing-out bars. Honestly, if you're comfortable with a wrench, I’d suggest looking into a platform instead of just bars. I’d go with the Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform paired with the Rhino-Rack SX100 Legs. The beauty of doing a DIY install on a platform like this is that you can ensure the slats are perfectly positioned to distribute the load across the strongest points of the roof rails. I mean, while it takes an afternoon to assemble, it's way more robust for heavy kayaks because it offers multiple tie-down points that minimize lateral shift. Just a tip from someone who’s done this a few times: make sure you use a calibrated torque wrench for the mounting bolts. Tbh, the biggest failure point in self-service installs is over-tightening or uneven tension on the rail grips. It’s a rock-solid, expert-level upgrade if you want to eliminate that highway wobble for good.