Sooo, I actually just finished up-fitting a ProMaster EV for my own fleet last month and I feel u on the range anxiety lol. Since ur looking to save cash while keeping weight down, I totally suggest skipping the heavy steel stuff... basically, u want aluminum or composite everything to maximize ur Wh/mi efficiency. In my experience, here is the best budget-friendly but technical setup:
* **The Bulkhead:** This is lowkey the most IMPORTANT mod. I used the Legend Fleet Solutions Insulated Composite Bulkhead for ProMaster. It’s way lighter than steel and keeps the cabin temp stable so the heater doesnt murder ur battery. It runs about $850, but it's a must for thermal management.
* **Shelving:** Look at Ranger Design Aluminum Shelving Units. They’re significantly lighter than steel. If u wanna save more, look for used units on Marketplace, but stick to aluminum to save maybe 150 lbs of payload.
* **Flooring:** I went with Legend Fleet Solutions StabiliGrip Flooring for ProMaster EV cuz it's pre-cut for those specific battery access points. Honestly, avoiding heavy custom wood builds literally saves so much energy. gl!

> specifically, I'm curious about lightweight shelving systems... and if anyone has found a high-quality bulkhead that helps with climate control. I’m worried about the heater or AC draining the battery. Just sharing my experience: I went through this exact same headache last year when I got my ProMaster EV for my tech repair biz. NGL, I was super disappointed at first because the heater *literally* ate like 15-20% of my range during a cold snap. I initially tried a cheap "universal" thermal curtain, but it was basically useless for actually sealing the cab. Sooo, I ended up ripping that out and going with the Weather Guard Composite Bulkhead Model 96302-3-01. Honestly, it's been a game changer for the HVAC efficiency. Technically, the ProMaster EV uses a PTC heater which is a massive power hog. By sealing off that huge cargo area, the cab stays warm way longer without the system constantly drawing juice. Basically, less air volume to heat = more miles for driving. Plus, it's way lighter than the old steel partitions I used in my gas vans. For the floor, I had issues with generic rubber mats shifting around near the EV's specific floor bolts. I eventually swapped to the BedRug VanTred Cargo Mat. It’s custom-molded, so it fits around those battery access points perfectly and provides way better grip when things get wet. Weight-wise, I know the previous reply mentioned Ranger, but I actually found the Adrian Steel Aluminum Shelving Series to be a solid alternative. I went with their 44-inch units because they’re incredibly light but don't rattle like the cheap steel kits. It's a bit of an investment, but keeping the weight down is the only way to fight that range anxiety... Anyway, it's been a learning curve but focusing on that thermal seal is the #1 thing imo. gl! peace

Before I give a full recommendation, what is ur actual daily payload and how many times are you opening the rear doors per hour? From a technical standpoint, ur duty cycle dictates whether you need to prioritize the thermal R-value of the partition or the structural load-bearing capacity of the racking. It helps to know the specific mobile service niche too. If you look at the current market research, I would suggest comparing Sortimo Globelyst4 against something like the Holman Composite Partition. Sortimo is basically the gold standard for crash-test safety and precision fitment in electric platforms, whereas Holman offers a very high R-value for climate isolation. You really have to weigh the FMVSS compliance and structural integrity against the pure thermal efficiency. Few quick tips for the EV platform:

• Verify that any floor kit is compatible with the ProMaster EV high-voltage cable routing to avoid any accidental thermal bridging.
• Stick to partition systems that have a certified seal rating to reduce the kilowatt draw on your PTC heater during the winter.

So i actually had a similar mindset when I started out... I spent way too much on fancy branded gear because I was terrified of the battery draining. But tbh, after a year, I realized I could've saved a ton. Respectfully, I'd consider another option besides those super pricey aluminum kits mentioned earlier. Everyone talks about weight, but i think people OVERESTIMATE how much a little extra shelving weight actually kills the range. Like, are you really gonna notice 50lbs when you've got a full load of tools anyway?? Probably not. Also, be careful with the floor mats! I've seen guys buy the "perfect fit" ones that accidentally block the battery access or cooling vents. If the battery gets too hot cuz of a thick rubber mat, you're gonna have a bad time and maybe a voided warranty. Basically, keep it simple and dont overspend on the "EV" marketing hype. peace.

Re: "+1" - honestly Im right there with Tauccito. Just looking at the price tags for some of this lightweight gear makes my head spin. It drives me crazy how companies are basically just taxing us for buying electric now. You want a composite bulkhead? Thatll be double what the gas version cost even though the mold is literally identical. Its such a scam. TL;DR: Upfitting is a total money pit because manufacturers are just slapping EV on the label to hike prices 40% for the same cheap plastic. Ive spent way too many hours looking at spec sheets and the R-values on these insulated partitions are a joke for what they cost. You pay a premium for thermal efficiency and then you see gaps large enough to throw a wrench through. NGL the quality control across the board has gone totally downhill lately. We are basically paying more for thinner materials that feel like theyre gonna snap if you actually use them for real work. It is super frustrating trying to do a clean DIY build when the raw parts are priced like theyre made of gold.

+1