What are the best exterior styling accessories for a classic Chrysler PT Cruiser?

Regarding what #2 said about "Just caught this post after a bit of..." - hes totally right. I found that swapping full parts is way more satisfying than sticky trim. I checked some data on these two options:

• Spec-D Tuning Black Dual Halo Projector Headlights
• These have great thermal management for the LEDs and thick gaskets.
• Spyder Auto Smoke LED Tail Lights
• These use UV-stabilized polycarbonate that wont cloud in the Miami sun. Costs more upfront but they stay looking fresh. Let me know if you need more specs!

Re: "I totally agree about the adhesive junk... the..."

• I went through a phase where I bought every chrome stick-on piece I could find on eBay for my cruiser. Huge mistake. I live in a coastal area too and within six months, the salt and sun turned everything cloudy and the edges started poking out. It is not just an eyesore, it can actually be a safety hazard if a piece of trim flies off on the highway at 70mph, ngl. If you're doing a restoration, you gotta think about things that actually change the profile of the car without relying on tape. I would suggest looking at parts that bolt on or swap out entirely. Here are two things I tried that actually held up through the seasons:
• Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs 2865.140

I was worried these would make the ride too stiff for daily driving, but honestly, it just makes the PT feel more planted. The 1.2 inch drop front and back gives it that hot rod look without needing a bunch of plastic ground effects that scrape on every driveway. Be careful with the install tho, make sure you get an alignment right after or you'll eat through tires in a month.

• Vision Wheel 141 Legend 5 Gunmetal Machined Lip 17x7

These are way better than messing with hubcaps or cheap alloys. They have that old school five-spoke vibe that fits the PT aesthetic perfectly. I found that spending more on solid wheels is way more cost-effective than buying three sets of cheap styling kits that fail. Just check your lug nut torque after the first hundred miles... I have seen too many people skip that and regret it. Whatever you do, just avoid the stuff that relies on tape for "structural" looks. It basically never ends well in the heat.

Just caught this post after a bit of a break. I've only been working on my PT for about a year, but I've been very careful with what I bolt onto it. Honestly, I'm pretty satisfied with the route I took by avoiding those cheap tape-on accents entirely. My main concern was safety and longevity, especially with how hot the hood gets during long drives. Sticking to mechanical fasteners was a priority because heat cycles eventually kill even the best automotive tape. My process was basically hunting down components that utilize the factory holes or require actual drilling. Its more work, but the results are much more permanent:

• I installed a high-quality E&G Classics Stainless Steel Vertical Grille PT Cruiser which uses heavy-duty mounting hardware instead of plastic clips.
• Swapped the stick-on window shades for Lund Ventvisor In-Channel Window Deflectors 4-Piece Set since they tuck into the window channel and dont rely on adhesive strength.
• Real chrome-plated metal trim pieces hold up way better than the chrome-painted plastic stuff that starts bubbling after a few months. It took me a few weekends to get everything lined up perfectly, but I'm happy with how solid it feels. If you're tired of stuff peeling off in that Miami sun, maybe look into parts that require a wrench rather than just a heat gun. It really makes a difference in how the car feels at high speeds.

I totally agree about the adhesive junk... the Miami humidity just eats that stuff for breakfast. I've wasted so much money on things that looked good for exactly two weeks before the edges started lifting. It's honestly depressing watching a restoration fall apart because of bad glue. If you want stuff that stays, you might want to consider these points:

• make sure to use high-grade surface prep instead of just alcohol
• be careful with thin ABS plastic as it warps in direct sun
• i would suggest looking for fiberglass parts that use bolts Honestly, unless you are willing to drill and bolt things down, you're gonna keep having the same peeling issues. It's a massive pain but the only real way to get a look that stays put in that heat... just gotta be brave with the drill.