Ok so, I've been obsessing over the R3 reveal too, but ngl, I have some major concerns about the rack situation based on my time with the R1S. I actually bought the Rivian Cargo Crossbars for my current rig, and while the quick-release is cool, I had some annoying issues with the height. They sit really high off the roof, which RUINS the aero. Honestly, on my last trip, the wind whistle was so loud it was basically all I could hear at 70mph... super disappointing for such an expensive setup.

For the R3, I really hope they don't use those same proprietary mounts. I tried fitting my Thule Motion XT L Rooftop Cargo Box on a similar low-profile setup on a friend's EV, and the range hit was way less than with the bulky Rivian bars. If the R3 has that sloping rear hatch, you're definitely gonna wanna look at the Yakima SkyLine System with the Landing Pads if they make a fit kit. It's way more adjustable for hatch clearance.

My tip: Don't buy the official Rivian bars right away. Wait for Thule WingBar Edge compatibility. Those are way more aerodynamic and low-profile, which you'll need for that glass roof. I learned the hard way that "official" doesn't always mean "best" when it comes to wind noise and range. sucks to say it, but yeah. good luck!! 👍

sooo, I've been doing some deep dives into the R3 specs and ngl, I'm a bit nervous about the roof situation too. Since the R3 is basically a hatch, that sloping roofline is gonna be tricky for clearance. Honestly, you might want to consider checking out the fitment guides on RackAttack.com or the eTrailer.com fitment tool. They're usually super quick to update once dimensions are official.

Before you buy anything, make sure to look into the SeaSucker Talon Rack. It's a vacuum mount system, so it doesn't care about proprietary clips or fixed points, which might be a lifesaver if Rivian goes with a weird design. Just be careful with that glass roof tho! I'd suggest looking at Thule WingBar Edge if you want something low-profile to help with that range drag you mentioned. It's basically the gold standard for quiet bars. I mean, it's all still a bit of a guess until we see the final production rails but yeah... better safe than sorry with the hatch clearance! gl!

bump

Nice, didn't know that

> Given the unique sloping roofline at the back, I'm also worried about hatch clearance when a long cargo box is mounted. Tbh I'm in the exact same boat and it's driving me crazy. Spent years doing custom DIY rack builds on my older rigs but this sloping hatch on the R3 is a total puzzle. Honestly been staring at the same high-res renders for weeks trying to figure out where to even drill or mount tracks and I'm still coming up empty. It's so frustrating not having the actual mounting specs yet because I really want to start planning the rail layout but there's just zero info out there. Basically just guessing at this point and I hate it.

Tbh I totally agree about that sloping hatch being a potential disaster for clearance. I’m already planning to go the DIY route instead of waiting for 'official' accessories that’ll probably be super bulky. If you’re willing to do a bit of self-service, you can usually get a much tighter fit to the roof. Here’s why I’m leaning towards a DIY setup for the R3: * **Adjustability**: By using universal tracks, we can slide the bars further forward. This is basically the only way to fit a long box without hitting the hatch when it opens.
* **Reduced Drag**: I’m eyeing the Yakima JetStream bars. They have a much better aero profile than the blocky Rivian ones, which should help with that range anxiety.
* **Lower Profile**: You can usually find shorter mounting feet (like some from Rhino-Rack) to get the rack sitting just an inch or two above the glass. It looks soo much better tho you have to be careful with the clearance.
* **Cost**: Buying components separately and doing the install yourself is usually way cheaper than the dealer 'adventure' packages. Not 100% sure on the exact ditch dimensions yet, but I’m definitely gonna try to piece together a custom kit rather than going with a standard shop install. It’s more work but the R3 is such a unique shape, it’s probably worth it for the efficiency gains!