In my experience, i'd skip official bars and go for the Thule WingBar Edge Flush Rail Roof Rack System... they're way quieter. i used the Thule Motion XT XL 18 Cubic Foot Cargo Box and it looks sick, but ngl, your electric range is gonna take a hit, maybe like 15%? also, make sure to be careful with the pano roof because it kinda gets pretty close to the mounts... gl!

Late to the party but honestly, congrats on the new CX-90! It’s an AMAZING ride. For your situation, I’d suggest looking at the Yakima JetStream Crossbars 60 inch Black combined with the Yakima SightLine FX Rail Towers. They’re a bit more budget-friendly than the Thule setup mentioned before but still have that sweet aero shape to keep wind noise low. Technically, any box WILL tank your electric range—idk the exact math, but expect like a 10-15% drop cuz of the drag. It's basically physics, lol. Regarding the sunroof, this Yakima setup sits high enough so you wont hit the glass when it tilts. I personally LOVE the Yakima SkyBox 16 Carbonite Cargo Box because it fits the CX-90 profile PERFECTLY without looking like a huge bubble. Plus, the price-to-performance is top-tier. Hope that helps, gl with the road trips!!

> I saved like $300 going with a generic brand instead of those big names mentioned already and it basically works the same!! tbh I have to respectfully disagree with the idea that generic bars are "basically the same" as the premium engineered systems. As a DIY enthusiast who does all my own installs, there is a massive difference in metallurgical quality and stress testing. When you are mounting a 70lb box to a heavy vehicle like the CX-90 PHEV, you really need to consider the dynamic load rating vs the static load. Most generic brands dont actually certify to ISO/PAS 11154 standards, which is basically the gold standard for roof rack safety. Instead of just tightening by feel, I always use a Torque Wrench to hit the exact Newton-meters specified in the manual (usually around 4-6 Nm for these flush rails). Over-tightening is a common DIY mistake that can actually deform the rail or cause stress fractures over time. If you want a solid alternative to Thule, maybe look at the Rhino-Rack Vortex StealthBar. Its a very clean, low-profile DIY install that handles the T-track accessories really well. Just be sure to measure your crossbar spread twice to make sure you arent blocking the pano roof’s sensors!

+1 to what was said earlier. Basically, wind load stresses rails more than weight. I once had a mount vibrate loose cuz I didnt check tension. Honestly, now I ALWAYS retighten after an hour.

Sooo just saw this thread! I went through this last year.
- I was reallyyy worried about the sunroof clearance, but my current setup has enough gap to vent the glass safely.
- Range-wise, I definitely noticed more drag. My efficiency dropped from 2.5 to maybe 2.1 mi/kWh...
- Honestly, I saved like $300 going with a generic brand instead of those big names mentioned already and it basically works the same!! peace

Quick reply while I have a sec. In my experience over the years, the biggest mistake people make is buying everything brand new from the dealership. Ive tried many setups and for a heavy SUV like the CX-90 PHEV, you want something aerodynamic but not overpriced. I ended up going with the Malone AirFlow2 Aluminum Aero Cross Rail System because it is basically silent and costs a fraction of the big names. As for the box, honestly look for a Inno Shadow 16 Cargo Box if you can find one. It has a much lower profile than most, which is huge for keeping your mi/kWh from diving too hard. If youre a DIYer, my best tip for saving cash is watching local classifieds like Marketplace. I rarely pay full price for boxes that just sit in my garage most of the year anyway. Just double check the mounting hardware fits those aero bars before you buy. I actually prefer the Malone rails cuz they feel way more heavy duty than the generic stuff mentioned earlier, but without that massive Thule price tag.