Which dash cams are compatible with the Cadillac LYRIQ's power system?

Question

I just picked up my LYRIQ last week and honestly I am already hitting a wall with the dash cam setup. The electronics in this thing are so sensitive and I am terrified of bricking something or getting those annoying battery drain errors. I saw some people talking about the Fitcamx since it looks like it belongs there and replaces the plastic housing behind the mirror but then I read a thread where someone said it caused interference with the safety sensors and I really dont want to mess with the Super Cruise stuff. I also looked at the BlackVue DR970X because everyone says its the gold standard but apparently hardwiring it into the fuse box is a nightmare because the car stays awake longer than normal and it keeps triggering low voltage warnings on the Cadillac app. It is so frustrating that a 60k car doesnt just have a built in usb port up by the mirror like some other brands do now. I am in Houston so it gets hot as hell and I need something that wont melt or kill my 12v battery while I am parked at work. My budget is around 400 bucks and I really need this figured out before my road trip to Austin next weekend. Does anyone actually have a setup that works without throwing codes or do I have to just use a cigarette lighter plug and have wires hanging everywhere...

lokgpsnopr · Accepted Answer

I had similar worries about the 12V system. To avoid battery drain issues, I used a Dongar Technologies Dashcam Power Adapter 10-pin Type H for GM to tap the rearview mirror power. It works great with my Viofo A139 Pro 4K HDR Dash Cam. This setup avoids the fuse box entirely, so you wont trigger those annoying app warnings or mess with Super Cruise. The Viofo handles the Texas heat way better than battery-based cams.

gxrdgfhyyr · Answer

The Thinkware U3000 4K UHD Dash Cam is amazing for Houston heat! Definitely check DashCamTalk for some fantastic wiring hacks, they have super helpful guides for the LYRIQ tho!

Meanyper · Answer

> The electronics in this thing are so sensitive and I am terrified of bricking something or getting those annoying battery drain errors. Saw this thread this morning and man, I feel your pain. It is honestly exhausting trying to find a clean way to power accessories in these high-voltage platforms. Over the years, I have seen so many people think they can just shove a fuse tap into any empty slot, but these newer Ultium cars are basically rolling computers. In my experience, the biggest danger isnt even the battery drain... it is the EMI noise on the communication bus. If you tap a circuit that shares a common ground with the ADAS sensor array, you risk intermittent Super Cruise dropouts or calibration errors. People dont realize that these systems are calibrated for very specific voltage tolerances. One tiny fluctuation from a cheap voltage regulator and the car goes into a fail-safe mode. Especially in that Houston heat, those components are already stressed to their limits. Just be careful with those generic kits tho; they are often not shielded well enough for a car this sensitive.