I recently picked up a 392 Scat Pack and I'm absolutely loving the raw power, but I want to make sure I’m setting it up right for the long haul. I’ve already noticed the stock 245 tires struggle to find grip, so wider rubber is definitely on my list. Aside from tires, what do you guys consider 'essential' for these cars? I’m looking into an oil catch can for engine health and maybe some lowering springs to tighten up the handling. I have a budget of about $1,500 to start. Are there any specific mods that really wake the car up or improve the driving experience? What would you prioritize first?
> Aside from tires, what do you guys consider 'essential' for these cars? I’m looking into an oil catch can for engine health... Yo! Congrats on the new ride, honestly there is nothing like that 392 growl. I've been in the Mopar game for over a decade now and seen it all, so here's my two cents from a safety-first perspective. If you're gonna push that much power, you NEED to stop as well as you go. Those stock Brembos are great but the brake dust is insane and can actually hide issues if you're not careful. I HIGHLY recommend swapping to PowerStop Z26 Extreme Street Performance Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads. It's a cheap mod that saves your wheels and gives a way more predictable bite during daily driving, which is a huge safety plus IMO. Also, since ur worried about engine health, look into the Speedlogix Billet Oil Catch Can for 6.4L Hemi. It's a solid alternative to others mentioned and keeps that blow-by gunk out of your intake—basically mandatory for keeping the engine running clean for the long haul. I think maybe the biggest safety risk is actually the lack of traction you mentioned. Ditch those 245s ASAP! If you want grip without breaking the bank, getting Nitto NT555 G2 275/40R20 tires on the rear makes a WORLD of difference. It keeps the back end from stepping out unexpectedly when you're just trying to merge into traffic. Lowering is cool for looks, but definitely keep it functional so you don't scrape and ruin your oil pan. You're gonna have sooo much fun with this thing, gl!!
Ok so, totally agree with the above! That catch can is basically a mandatory tax for Hemi owners if you want to keep your intake manifold clean... highkey essential. I had a moment to think about this more and honestly, while tires are the biggest bottleneck, you gotta fix the rear end stability too. When I first got my Scat Pack, the wheel hop was so violent during launches I thought the diff was gonna snap lol. It was seriously scary. With your $1,500 budget, I’d compare these two for handling: 1. Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs 28111.140 (~$320)
Pros: Looks amazing by killing the wheel gap and really flattens the car in corners.
Cons: Makes the ride a bit firmer, which might be annoying on bad roads. 2. BMR Suspension Rear Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit BK051 (~$200)
Pros: This is the real MVP for traction. It stops the subframe from moving and LITERALLY kills wheel hop.
Cons: No visual "clout" since it’s hidden underneath. TL;DR: Grab the BMR Suspension Rear Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit BK051 first to save your drivetrain, then spend the rest of the cash on better rubber. It makes the power actually usable. peace 👍
This^ you might want to consider the Mopar Hellcat Lower Air Box 68175164AC. I was nervous about heat soak, but it actually helped my IATs stay low. be careful with installation!!
Yo, congrats on the 392! In my experience, engine health comes first. I highkey recommend the Billet Technology Signature Series Catch Can for 6.4L Hemi to keep oil out of your intake... basically essential for the long haul. Also, those 245s are *literally* useless lol. Id suggest Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 305/35ZR20 for the rear. Be careful with lowering though—pro alignment is a MUST or youll ruin the geometry. gl!
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Ok so, everyone has basically covered the big three: tires, catch cans, and suspension. If you’re working with a $1,500 budget, my biggest piece of advice from an experienced DIY perspective is to do the labor yourself. These LX/LA platforms are super straightforward to wrench on, and you’ll save roughly $500–$700 in shop fees that can go right back into better parts. Since you want to improve the driving experience, I HIGHLY recommend the Z-Automotive Tazer Challenger. It’s a simple plug-and-play tool that installs into the SGW or OBDII port (depending on your year) and unlocks factory features you didn't pay for, like Track Mode, custom light shows, and Line Lock for heating up those new tires. It’s the ultimate DIY electronic mod. Also, to really tighten up the front end without ruining the ride quality, look into a Petty's Garage Front Strut Tower Brace. It takes about 20 minutes to bolt on and significantly reduces the “boat” feeling during heavy cornering. Since you mentioned the long haul, definitely grab a quality torque wrench and do your own fluid swaps. I always swap the factory diff fluid for Red Line Synthetic High-Performance Gear Oil after the first 3,000 miles to clear out any break-in debris. It’s a messy DIY but totally worth it for peace of mind lol.