What are the absolute dealbreakers I should be checking for on a high-mileage Lexus ES? I'm finally looking at a 2010 ES 350 with like 170k miles on it for my new daily driver and I'm honestly so hyped to finally get something comfy. I read online that the 2GR-FE engine is basically immortal but then some forums mentioned this crazy expensive oil leak from the timing cover that requires pulling the whole engine out and now I'm stressed. How can I even tell if thats starting? I've only got about 8k to spend total so I cant afford a huge surprise repair right after buying it. Is there anything else besides the oil thing I should look at before I hand over the cash next Tuesday?
Just saw this and wanted to chime in. Aside from that leak, you really need to check the oil cooler hoses. The original rubber ones tend to burst, so check if theyve been swapped for the all-metal version. At 170k miles, be careful with the suspension too. Use an Ullman Devices HT-2 Telescoping Inspection Mirror to look for oily, leaking struts behind the wheels. If the ride feels like a boat, youre looking at a huge bill right off the bat. I would suggest bringing an Autel AutoLink AL519 OBD2 Scanner to check for hidden codes that a seller might have cleared. Also, touch the dashboard. If it feels sticky or looks shiny, it is melting... it was a huge defect on these and Lexus doesnt fix them for free anymore. A solid ES is a total tank, but a neglected one will eat your budget fast with water pump or rack and pinion repairs.
> I read online that the 2GR-FE engine is basically immortal but then some forums mentioned this crazy expensive oil leak from the timing cover Dude you are going to absolutely love the ES! I picked up an older one a few years ago and it was the comfiest car I ever owned. Seriously amazing for highway cruising and so quiet! About that leak tho... it is definitely a real thing to watch for. When I was looking, I brought a super bright flashlight like the Anker Bolder LC90 Rechargeable Flashlight and shined it right down the passenger side of the engine block behind the belts. If its wet or gunked up with dark slime, just walk away because that repair is a bank breaker. Also check the VVTi oil line! The old ones were rubber and could just pop, but you can buy a metal replacement part for super cheap. Since your budget is 8k, definitely save $150 for a professional inspection at a local shop. It saved me from buying a total lemon before I found my silver beauty!
Catching this a bit late but honestly dont let the internet horror stories scare you too much... just gotta be methodical. For that timing cover leak on the 2GR-FE, you basically need to look at the back of the engine block on the passenger side near the firewall. In my experience, if its just a light weep or some grime, most folks just leave it alone since it wont really affect the car as long as you watch the oil level. A massive drip that hits the driveway is the real dealbreaker. Beyond the oil leak, you really need to check the VVT-i oil line. On the 2010 models, Lexus originally used a rubber hose that was notorious for bursting. Look for a metal replacement line instead. Also, peek around the water pump area for any crusty pink residue. Those pumps usually start failing around the 120k mark, so at 170k it might be on its second one or ready to go soon. I suggest keeping some Toyota Genuine Long Life Coolant Antifreeze on hand anyway just to top off if needed. I always bring a scanner to check for hidden codes that havent triggered a light yet. Something like the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android is great because it shows permanent codes that someone might have just cleared before you showed up. If the transmission feels even slightly jerky or hesitates between gears, walk away. Repairs on those Aisin units arent cheap and you dont want that bill on top of your purchase price.